This page describes the process of maintaining your paintwork between washes.
Important: Tecnically speaking your vehicle isn't dirty ... Here let me explain.
Remember when cleaning your car it took me 6 hours, and you wonderd why? There is method in my madness, because I create a surgically clean surface for the wax, so that it bonds perfectly. This is why you get the showroom finish and more importantly why it lasts for up to 6 month.
This is as true for washes with me, as those with any other service provider, if your vehicle has a sealant on top, it shouldn't be cleaned again until the sealant has worn down sufficiently to apply the wax I use.
Use this type of service at your peril.
Supermarket washes often spray liquid wax onto a wet, partially dirty surface. This doesn't protect your car—it laminates the grime. It traps water minerals and dirt underneath a layer of cheap sealant, creating permanent water spots that can only be removed by machine polishing. My system ensures the surface is surgically clean before the wax goes on, so you’re seeing the paint, not a layer of trapped road film.
I know you want to keep that shine for as long as possible, but the moment you use the wrong products or techniques, your wax protection will degrade. Traditional washing can leave your paint patchy, dull, or covered in permanent water marks.
Venture pureRinse is the only thing that should touch your car between professional details. It maintains the Bilt Hamber wax bond while safely removing dust and marks without the risks of a full wash.
Every item in my shop has been specifically selected or designed to work within the Venture Detailing system—a high-performance approach to car care that balances professional-grade results with efficiency. These products are ideal on any car I detail.
A high-purity deionised water designed specifically to clean any marks that appear after the clean is completed. Forumulated to work with Bilt Hamber Double Speed wax, pureRinse will remove marks with zero risk of creating water marks, spotting or streaking.
A highly affordable option, comes in a 1 Litre spray bottle at £10, or £11.99 from my ebay shop.
How to use
IMPORTANT: pureRinse should be the only water that touches you car between details, NEVER use tap water, because this will strip the wax, and leave water spots.
In this scenario, you didn't know about not using tap water, you've cleaned a small section, and there are spots, or worse, you cleaned in direct sunlight and the minerals have etched into the clearcoat.
For this we have Venture SpotDisolve, this will remove the spots completely, but should be used with caution.
I use this to clean water damage, this is a common issue, for example when care isn't taken to clean hard to reach places, like intracate trims e.g. Volvo grills, but also when poor techniques have been used in a previous clean, e.g. spray wax applied after little or no drying, and using water from the mains.
Targets Calcium Carbonate and Magnesium Carbonate, which are the main culprits in hard water spots.
Colchester is a hard water location, meaning the chalk and limescale in the water is brutal. It doesn't just sit on the paint; it "bites" in within minutes if the sun hits it.
NEVER, as I expressed earlier, clean a car I've detailed using tap water, if you do use the hose on that 4-hour hand-wax, you’re basically sandblasting it with minerals.